Hyperkult

Va-Va-Vuitton; Photo credit: Style.com

If I could sum up Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2010 presentation for Louis Vuitton in one word, it would be “breasts.”

Fashion journalists and bloggers have been abuzz about Jacobs ushering in the “return of the curve” with dresses that Mad Men’s costumers should take note of. Waists nipped in by long belts and flared, A-line skirts dressed women of notably more shape than the usual crop of rail-thin models employed for runway shows. Though the latter had a presence at Vuitton, attention was showered on the heaving bosoms of Laetitia Casta and Adriana Lima (both new mothers), and model-turned-lingerie designer Elle Macpherson, the show’s queen bee in a voluminous pink strapless gown.

The clothes were indisputably gorgeous, hearkening back to one of my favorite ’50s-inspired Jacobs collections, that of Spring 2003, but done up with the exaggerated opulence that the House of Vuitton demands. Lately I’ve found myself trading minis for high-waisted, below-the-knee skirts and Mary Jane heels, and come fall I can see myself pairing them with cashmere (okay, faux cashmere) sweaters, new tortoise shell glasses*, and a vintage schoolgirl’s satchel that I really wish was Proenza Schouler’s PS1 bag.**

Miuccia Prada’s Fall collection was also a celebration of shapeliness, a term I use with reserve. When reporters say “bigger” women graced the catwalk at Vuitton and Prada, they’re referring to models over a size 2. If these are diversity efforts, then we are eking toward variety at the slowest possible pace. My instincts tell me this is the best we can hope for at the moment, the swerve and bounce of these women’s figures labeled “radical” by an industry accustomed to denying difference—denying bodies—altogether.

But in Paris and Milan many of the collections themselves were glorious, leading me, a sun-worshipping Californian, to daydream about colder climates and donning nubby knee-high socks or Hannah MacGibbon’s rust colored turtleneck jumper for Chloé. Brilliant.

*Thanks to my friend Luisa of Free The Inspiration for introducing me to Warby Parker’s awesome glasses.

**If you’ve seen the bag in person you know that the bigger the size, the more it starts to look like a laptop case, as my sister astutely pointed out. In fantasy-land, I’d prefer the smaller version for everyday wear.

Proenza Schouler PS1 bag; Photo credit: Net-a-Porter

Prada and Chloé Fall 2010 RTW; Photo credit: Style.com

"Miles" Glasses; Photo credit: Warby Parker

Rodarte S/S 2010, Photo credit: Style.com

New York’s Spring/Summer 2010 Fashion Week was a let down. I can’t say that I was enthusiastic about many of the collections, save for the four that I’m highlighting here. What was most disappointing about the New York shows was that many designers paraded out barely tweaked iterations of what they’re known for. Sure, there is something to be said for having a “signature,” for satisfying a loyal client base, but when that signature turns routine, it’s at best predictable and at worse a sign of laziness.

But onto the good: Rodarte (above) in particular was look after look of breathtaking, tough, gothic ballerina wear unlike anything else shown this past week—the kind of half-mad, but ultimately wearable and beautiful imaginings of the Mulleavy sisters, Kate and Laura. Next up for the two is Rodarte for Target, the chain’s next Go! International collaboration. I’m not sure how Rodarte’s $1,000+ shredded sweaters and elaborately draped dresses will translate to a $20-100 price range, but I’m trusting the Berkeley badasses to do what they do best, with discounted panache.

Proenza Schouler S/S 2010, Photo credit: Style.com

Diane von Furstenberg S/S 2010, Photo credit: Style.com

Marc Jacobs S/S 2010, Photo credit: Style.com