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Savory City: A Food and Drink Guide to Los Angeles

Heidi — Tue, 22 Mar 2011 11:14:15 +0000

This is my town.

I moved to Los Angeles believing it to be the veneered, cliché-ridden city portrayed by many a reality show: an alienating urban sprawl bathed in sunshine’s constant glow by day and the near-blinding glare of Sunset Boulevard’s LED lights by night; overrun by opportunists, It-Girls and Boys in the making; and justly spoken of with contempt by my Northern Californian counterparts. In short, I moved there expecting to hate it.

Surprisingly, the opposite proved true. I fell completely, disgustingly in love with the city, which transcended every stereotype unfairly slapped onto it and gave me a lovely life during my two-and-a-half year living stint. If you are looking for a culturally and morally vacuous Los Angeles it is easy enough to find, but you would be doing yourself a great disservice by believing that L.A. begins at X Hollywood hotspot and ends at Toast. Not that there’s anything wrong with eating at Toast. (See below.)

My departure from L.A. was the impetus for me writing this guide to some of the city’s best restaurants, bars, and coffee shops, a list that is by no means exhaustive. The city is wont to rapid and trend-driven turnaround, where a restaurant may be anointed “Must Eat/See-and-be-Seen At” one moment then unceremoniously fall off the radar once something newer and trendier opens. (Remember Dolce? No? It’s probably better that way.) This may not be the definitive L.A. handbook, but “this is my town” and these are some of my favorite things about it.

Explore by Neighborhood:

Silver Lake/Echo Park/Highland Park

Los Feliz

Hollywood/West Hollywood

Mid-Wilshire/K-Town/Hancock Park

Downtown Los Angeles

Beverly Hills/West Los Angeles/Santa Monica

Multiple Locations

Mobile/Pop-Ups

Silver Lake/Echo Park/Highland Park

Bar Keeper

Bar Keeper is a cocktail emporium, a self-described “head shop” for master mixologists and those with similar aspirations. Stocking more than just shakers and spirits, this is where you go to find that brouilleur, pro jig, and StrainRay™ you’ve been searching for to complete your home bar. I don’t speak Cocktailese, but every time I wandered inside I was half-seduced into stocking up on exclusive bitters, rare label liqueurs, and fancy martini sets. Chin-chin.

3910 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.669.1675

Café Stella

Café Stella, located in Silver Lake’s Sunset Junction, is the ultimate date spot. Dinner here virtually guarantees a makeout session post-pommes frites, and there’s even a condom dispenser in the restrooms for hipsters feeling uber lucky. (In hindsight, I wonder why none of the guys I went out with were smart enough to realize this.) Stella’s presence amidst the neighborhood’s gentrified grunge feels strangely apropos, a slice of Paris nestled against a gourmet cheese store and artisanal coffee purveyor Intelligentsia next door.

L.A. is in love with brasserie-style cuisine right now (see: Delphine, Bouchon, et al.), but Stella serves my favorite French food hands down. In the mood for escargot, truffle oil fries, onion soup bubbling over with Gruyere, and filet mignon? Stella’s your gal.

3932 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.666.0265

The Cheese Store of Silver Lake

Creamy cuts of brie, artisanal olive oil, and lavender-flecked chocolate bars await inside the Cheese Store of Silver Lake, Sunset Junction’s one stop shop for local gourmands looking to stock their pantries. If you’re hosting a dinner party or feel like throwing together an indulgent charcuterie board for hedonism’s sake, the Cheese Store has you covered, but at an expectedly exorbitant price. The biggest danger upon entering isn’t O.D.-ing on samples, but leaving with a canvas shopper spilling over with superfluous, yet delicious, foodstuffs. Does anyone really need coffee syrup for home use? Eh, sometimes it doesn’t matter when something comes in pretty packaging.

3926-28 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.644.7511

Gingergrass

A commitment to authenticity is not the city’s strong suit, so Gingergrass’ take on Vietnamese might best be summed up as “hipster pho.” But is it good? Decisively, yes. Even on the warmest of L.A. days, I craved a big bowl of Gingergrass’ tofu, bean sprout, and basil-laden soup, with a side of shrimp chips and plum/peanut dipping sauce, or my go-to Jack and Ginger Salad (jack fruit, lotus root, poached shrimp, and shrimp sauce vinaigrette). Grab a casual dinner here after a day of working on your future pilot at next door’s Silver Lake Coffee Co.

2396 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.644.1600

Intelligentsia

When it comes to coffee, the good people at Intelligentsia don’t fuck around. It’s a proper coffee bar, where your barista wears a vaguely affected sneer and will make you a palate-punching cup of espresso. Drinks average around $3.00, the high price paying for quality beans, preparation, and the privilege of getting caffed-up amidst its slick environs. There are Venice and Pasadena outposts as well, but this location remains my Intelligentsia of choice.

3922 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.663.6173

LA MILL

With ornate chandeliers, waitresses uniformed in high-waisted jeans, and an $11,000 Clover machine powering its drink production, LA Mill is just as attractive as its bourgeois bohemian clientele. Like fellow haute coffee purveyor Intelligentsia, LA Mill caters to coffee conoisseurs. Despite its fancy designer trappings, LA Mill manages to provide a comfortable work atmosphere—limited use of free WiFi included—and a casual meet-up spot, along with coffee that is wonderfully potent.

1636 Silver Lake Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.663.4441

Coleen's Caramel Cake from Lark Cake Shop

Lark Cake Shop

L.A. loves cupcakes, those fashionable baked goods that have borne a cult following and even spawned a reality television show on the Food Network. Rather than wait in line at Sprinkles in Beverly Hills or tackle one of Crumbs’ obscenely large versions, I opt for Silver Lake’s Lark. Stacey’s Old Fashioned Coconut and Colleen’s Caramel are favorites, but I’ve also heard raves about the Chocolate Mousse, Red Velvet, and even the vegan choices. Stop in on a Wednesday, order a coffee and get a cupcake on the house—the earlier the better so you have more flavors to choose from.

3337 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.667.2968

Pazzo Gelato

How do I love Pazzo Gelato? Let me count the ways: I love the flavorful depth and breath of their creamy concoctions, which range from traditional (Stracciatella, Strawberry sorbetto) to seasonal specialties (Chevre with a Farmer’s Market Peach swirl) and other unique offerings (Buttered Brown Sugar with Candied Bacon). They’re open ‘till 11:00, so you can get a sweets fix pre-bedtime, or before the headlining act at the Echoplex goes on.

3827 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.662.1410

Short Stop

It’s all about the photobooth at ShortStop. And the cute boys. But a significant pain in the ass about visiting this perpetually-buzzing bar is finding neighborhood parking. You’ll likely be relegated to one of Echo Park’s steep and heel-unfriendly hills, unless someone miraculously pulls out of their prime spot on Sunset Boulevard so you can swoop in.

Once inside, you’ll be elbow-to-elbow in the neighborhood’s skinny jean-clad residents, who radiate affected vibes but are a generally benign bunch looking to dance, drink, and have a laugh with their friends. Snag a couch in the back room and you can do the same.

1455 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles | 213.482.4942

Silver Lake Coffee Co.

Arrive midday and you will be hard-pressed to find a coveted spot near an outlet at Silver Lake Coffee Co., a popular makeshift office for the independently employed. Their sandwiches, coffee, and salads are passably satisfying at best, but I did have a soft spot for the vegan energy bars they serve by the register. (Others call them “mealy,” but I love them.) Really, if you’re spending any extended amount of time here it’s for the free WiFi, quiet surroundings, and motivating work aura, which silently and successfully urges you to buckle down and finish the five pages you promised yourself you’d knock out by day’s end.

2388 Glendale Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.913.0388

The York on York Street

The York is a Highland Park hotspot swarming with gangly would-be musicians and local art students with a shared predilection for horn-rimmed glasses. Its gastropub fare speaks to the discerning palates of its chef and owners, but you’ll find nary a touch of snobbery at the York. You consult a massive blackboard on the back wall for the day’s menu and everyone places orders at the packed bar.

Instead of beer nuts you can opt for Fried Chickpeas, or give their Truffled Grilled Cheese, french fries, or Steamed Mussels a try. Ever on the search for L.A.’s best burger, I consider the York’s a contender for the top spot. It is no-nonsense, with simple accoutrements (white cheddar, rocket, harissa aioli) that don’t overwhelm the juicy, pink drippings of its patty. Be damned, he or she who dares order it well-done. Get a frothy draft beer to go with your meal and a German digestif to wash it down. The wine list is well-curated, too, with several options to sate non-beer drinkers.

5018 York Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.255.9675

Los Feliz

Café Figaro

Ooh la cassoulette! Situated on Los Feliz’ busy Vermont Avenue, Café Figaro is a popular neighborhood bistro and prime people watching location. Locals will also recognize it as the setting of this State Farm Insurance commercial. Inside the candlelit dining room are leather chairs and low tables where patrons exchange conversation in French and share sautéed frog legs. I suggest the buttery Sole Meunière as a main, and stocking up on éclairs and tarts from the dessert case on your way out.

1802 North Vermont Avenue | 323.662.1587

Trails Café

If you’re brave enough to attempt the uphill trek toward Griffith Park’s breathtaking summit (in truth, not too painful for the initiated), fuel up beforehand with Trails’ signature Avocado Sandwich. You’ll find the tiny café at the foot of the park, its outdoor dining area shaded by a canopy of trees, the occasional butterfly flitting by your table. They serve excellent coffee, along with a mouthwatering selection of baked goods (Nutella S’mores, Lavender Vanilla Cookies).

2333 Fern Dell Drive, Los Angeles | 323.871.2102

Hollywood/West Hollywood

A.O.C.

A.O.C. knows wine*, and how. But they also know food of the small plate, California-French variety that lends itself well to group dinners of six or less—any more and I think seating/sharing might get uncomfortable in the intimate restaurant space. Start off with charcuterie and work your way through the menu to get a taste of dishes with market-driven flair. Prices here are somewhat hefty, considering that you’ll have to order quite a few things to feel satisfied. But if you are willing to drop some cash, you’ll be repaid with a host of solid dishes way better than the sub-par fare (overcharred octopus—blech) other tapas-themed restaurants serve.

Tip: If there’s anything from Flowers Vineyard on the menu, order it.

8022 West Third Street, Los Angeles | 323.653.6359

Butterflies on the Ceiling at Bar Marmont

Bar Marmont

Chateau Marmont is where tabloid legends are made, where Kirsten Dunst might bum valet fare off of you out front (true story; happened to a friend of mine), and where TMZ’s wily photogs know to creep for the next cover of US Weekly. I never visited Bar Marmont on a weekend, preferring early, quiet evening weeknights instead. Rather than battle an insufferable line out front, I would waltz in, order a nice glass of wine, and read a book or dreamily stare at the butterflies on the ceiling uninterrupted. The lesson: you don’t need to be a Scarlett, Paris, or Hills cast member to make Marmont your own.

8221 West Sunset Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.650.0575

Loup de Mer at Hatfield's

Strawberry Napoleon at Hatfield's

Hatfield’s

Now located on Melrose Avenue, Hatfield’s has enjoyed a revered reputation in L.A.’s fine dining scene for some time now. Husband and wife dream team Quinn and Karen Hatfield are behind the restaurant, where a soundtrack of Radiohead may accompany your Date and Mint Crusted Lamb entrée. Obviously the Hatfields’ good taste extends beyond their palates.

Tufted leather banquettes line a grand dining room, offering a view into the kitchen, where Le Creuset cookware hangs above the heads of chefs buzzing about with purposeful precision. Food is prepared in a familiar fusion style: it’s Hollywood Farmer’s Market meets French countryside. Naturally, the menu is wont to change with season and availability of ingredients, but when I visited my friend and I enjoyed elegant dishes including a Squid Ink Garganelle with Lobster Butter, Warm Cuttlefish Salad with Maitake Mushrooms, Loup de Mer, the aforementioned Lamb with green-tinted, light as air Potato Mousseline, and a Strawberry Napoleon and just-bitter-enough Chocolate and Caramel Tartlet for dessert. As if that weren’t enough, miniature chocolate cupcakes were served alongside our bill, fleetingly lessening the pain of handing over our credit cards.

6703 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles | 323.935.2977

Hollywood Farmer’s Market

Of L.A.’s many farmer’s markets, Hollywood’s is among the grandest. By 11:00 AM on Sunday morning, the narrow pathway on Ivar just north of Amoeba is jammed with strollers and a sea of localvores with their Baggus. Visiting familiar vendors week after week offers a warm sense of community, and the assurance that you’ll return home with bagsful of the season’s produce bounty.

During summertime, I make a beeline for the farmer selling mango-flavored nectarines, who instructed me to look for russetting patterns on fruits’ surfaces for the sweetest pulls. There is also an amazing goat cheese stall—run by a sweet elderly woman I came simply to know as “the goat cheese lady”—stationed near the breads and baked goods, and Carmela Ice Cream often has a booth at the end of this same lane, usually helmed by a handsome, unshaven foodie who will walk you through the flavors available that day. Then there are the fresh-cut hydrangeas, the rotund, most likely high “incense dude,” and stall after stall of zebra-striped heirloom tomatoes at the height of summer. It’s a food lover’s dream come true.

Ivar Street & Selma Avenue | 323.463.3171

Joans Hollywood

Not to be confused with Joan’s on Third, this bar and restaurant, right ‘round the corner from a massive Target shopping complex, is one of the least pretentious places to grab a drink in West Hollywood. No need to get gussied up, worry about charming a doorman, or fret about having your name on a list. Come as you are and let the sexy blare of DFA 1979’s “Romantic Rights” receive you, as was the case on my first visit. Drinks are reasonably priced and their pizza is ripe for drunken noshing.

7205 Santa Monica Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.850.1726

Lunch at Joan's on Third

Joan’s on Third

Since I started visiting L.A. as an awestruck 19-year-old, this casual West Third Street restaurant and marketplace has doubled in size. The pristine, bright white space is my favorite place to grab lunch in the city, and because I’m a creature of habit I order the same thing nearly every time: the Fresh Mozzarella, Tomato, and Basil sandwich with Joan’s signature vinaigrette. It’s always good.

Other favorites include the seasonal heirloom tomato salad, roasted carrots, berry muffins, delicious gelatos, fudge brownies, cheese/charcuterie plate, and nearly everything from their retail space (gourmet pastas, olive oils, etc.). Fresh ingredients of the highest integrity rule at Joan’s.

You’ll have to fight for a table if you want to eat outside on a sunny day, or you can opt for the communal table indoors, where you never know what interesting Angeleno you’ll strike up a conversation with.*

*So says the girl who once had a good looking Frenchman give her his number/e-mail address at said table, only to find out he was the same guy who, allegedly, stole and attempted to sell Paris Hilton’s cell phone. We did not go out on a date. Thank you, Google.

8350 West 3rd Street, Los Angeles | 323.655.2285

La Poubelle

Stepping into La Poubelle’s dim lit interior makes me wish that I was equipped with infrared sight. The lack of light makes for an undeniably sexy ambiance: witness table after table of attractive patrons seductively leaning toward one another over glasses of Cabernet. La Poubelle was the go-to drinks spot for me and my fellow Upright Citizen’s Brigade-loving crew, where we’ve sipped Cigare Volant with Ryan Gosling at the table next to us and waxed poetic about the phallic jokes just heard at the latest Facebook show.

5907 Franklin Avenue, Hollywood | 323.465.0807

Lou

Strip mall sushi joints are rife and generally respected in L.A., but strip mall wine bars? Don’t be put off by the nondescript location of this hidden gem, located in between a laundromat and liquor store on the corner of Melrose and Vine. Chintzy black curtains obscure a cozy restaurant inside, where the knowledgeable staff will guide you through a robust list of quirkily described varietals (think “rubbery” and “weird ass” rather than “peppery” and “fruit forward”). Order a side of Pig Candy (bacon caramelized with brown sugar) as a starter, a charcuterie plate if you’re meeting for a quick drink, and the scallops if want a main course. Lou also ranks highly in the good-for-dates department.

724 Vine Street, Los Angeles | 323.962.6369

Mozza2Go

While I’ve never sat down to eat at Mozza (Osteria or Pizzeria), I have ordered from Mozza2Go, the take away outpost of Nancy Silverton and Mario Batali’s joint restaurant venture. 2Go satisfies diners’ cravings for artisanal wood-fired pizzas without the hassle of having to make reservations, often long in advance.

The Prosciutto de Parma, rucola, tomato and mozzarella is a winner, as is the rich Butterscotch Budino for dessert. They even deliver, but you’re better off placing an order during early evening and picking it up yourself to avoid waits of an hour or more for your food.

6610 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles | 323.297.1130

The perfect scallop at Providence

Snapper at Providence

Providence

Finally dining at Providence was like reaching the summit of Mount Everest: a foodie dream fully realized, but not without great effort. Five courses may not seem like a lot, but the portions at Providence are more generous than you’d expect for a fancy-schmancy Michelin-starred restaurant. By course three of the seafood-centric tasting menu, my dining companion and I were happily struggling to make it to dessert. And, oh, was the journey ever wonderful. Scallops, hamachi, snapper, and beef tenderloin graced our presence in the sometimes uncomfortably hushed dining room, each artful dish brought out with precise timing from the kitchen. It is worth the $85 (without wine pairing) Prix Fixe bill for one of the most memorable dining experiences you’ll have in L.A.

5955 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles | 323.460.4170

Toast

I resisted eating at Toast for two solid years into my time as an L.A. resident. Why? The inevitably long wait, for one thing, coupled with a few too many sightings of stonewash denim-clad men and my inability to disentangle the café from its association with The Hills. It was Toast’s Soy Chai Latte, which I’m going to boldly call the best in L.A., that did me in. Toast serves straightforward, hearty sandwiches and a satisfying Chicken Chow Salad that isn’t built for nitpicky dieters.

8221 West 3rd Street, Los Angeles | 323.655.5018

The Roosevelt

Going out in Hollywood is nothing if not trying on one’s patience and sense of self worth. Even at the shittiest of clubs, there is a line of severely made-up females and gel-coiffed guys that will likely get smarmily close once you step inside. Lists are common, and if you want to get in without an “in,” you’d better show up early and make sure the male to female ratio of your party is low.

Though “Hollywood” in many respects, the Roosevelt one of few places in the neighborhood I could tolerate grabbing a drink. Part of it has to do with the sheer history of the hotel, which is said to be haunted by the glam ghost of one Miss Marilyn Monroe. (A good friend can attest to having had a paranormal experience in the hotel’s elevator.) Cocktails are good, and I have fond memories of sitting poolside at the Tropicana, gimlet in hand, giggling with girlfriends while gawking at the crowd around us. And, oh, is that Thom Yorke who’s showed up for a surprise DJ session? If you’re lucky enough, yes. Yes it is.

7000 Hollywood Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.466.7000

Square One Dining

Behind the imposing Scientology Center on L. Ron Hubbard Drive lies a tiny restaurant whose claim to fame is its brunch menu. Here, thick slabs of French toast are sweet enough to eat without syrup, but a drizzling of maple takes the flavor of the moist bread slices over the top. So rich are these triangular pillows that they’re best shared, split with a savory egg dish and side of fruit. I am partial to their fresh-baked pastries, the scones and muffins especially. While the name of the restaurant suggests a back-to-basics approach, the products of their labor are anything but ordinary, eliciting a “Hallelujah!” from a friend on one brunch visit.

4854 Fountain Avenue, Hollywood | 323.661.1109

The Village Idiot

The Village Idiot is my favorite restaurant in all of L.A., mainly because it very quickly became my friends’ version of the Cheers bar. This gastropub is a popular watering hole and pick-up joint for locals, but its food supersedes its cool cred. I usually take out-of-towners here for a drink and an elevated take on British pub fare, and without fail everyone falls hard for the Idiot. Not to be missed are the Ale-Steamed Mussels with Garlic Bread “Mops” (butter, butter, butter), pies, Pub Burger, and, if it’s on the menu, their take on ice cream cake.

7383 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles | 323.655.3331

Mid-Wilshire/K-Town/Hancock Park

Bricks & Scones

Larchmont Boulevard plays home to no less than four coffee shops, from a certain Seattle-based goliath to Bricks & Scones, a two-story sanctuary for the area’s many freelancers. Pastries are baked with love “by mom,” the coffee is Intelligentsia, the tea Lupicia (mmm, Champagne Rose), the WiFi free, and the atmosphere ideal for getting a day’s worth of writing done. Or messing about on Facebook.

403 North Larchmont Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.463.0811

Larchmont Village Wine and Cheese

This nondescript wine store and grocer on Larchmont makes simple sandwiches with the finest of ingredients: Iberico ham, moist and fresh buffalo mozzarella, tapenade spread, fruity olive oil, and so on. They serve lunch “until [they] run out of bread,” reads a sign out front, and such is the case nearly every day.

Beware of monopolizing one of the sidewalk tables during the busy lunch hour, lest you be scolded by the store’s surly owner, who I’ve seen crack a smile only once. The wine retail space is small but well-stocked, and it’s possible to go home with a quality bottle for $10-12, or splurge on something to impress your dinner host.

223 North Larchmont Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.856.8699

Larchmont Village Farmer’s Market

Fantastic as the Hollywood market is, I found myself shopping at the Larchmont market more often because it was within walking distance of my old apartment. Depending on your POV, Larchmont is either one of the most charming streets in all of L.A., or an upper-middle class trainwreck. Truth be told it’s a bit of both, but my favorite place to spend a lazy Sunday morning nonetheless, stuffing my canvas bag full of kale, pears, and the like. Not to be missed stalls include the fish vendor, who sells scallops so fresh you can eat them raw, the balsamic vinegar stand, and baker selling buttery croissants, gigantic apple-banana bran muffins, and tartlets.

Larchmont Boulevard | 818.591.8161

Downtown Los Angeles

Bottega Louie

On any given weeknight, Bottega Louie’s dining room swarms with lawyers and business folk itching for a stiff drink to match their conservative workwear, or one of the restaurant’s wood-fired pizzas. The restaurant is among Downtown L.A.’s most attractive dining destinations, a massive white space with an open kitchen, mini in-house patisserie, and gourmet grocery items prettily merchandized for sale.

Much of the menu is served tapas-style, encouraging you to order several dishes to share. Fail to do so and you may receive a terse smile and disapproving, “Oh, are you sure?” from your waiter/waitress. Fried eggplant fries are a crowd pleaser, as are the aforementioned pizzas. For lunch, you can mix-and-match a few sides from their deli case and finish it off with a few colorful macarons or a Voges Bacon Chocolate Bar.

700 South Grand Avenue, Los Angeles | 213.802.1470

Chaya Downtown

There are a few Chaya outposts in L.A., plus the niche cuisine-serving M Café, but this location became my “spot” while I was working Downtown. Architect/Designer Anthony Poon, who I interviewed for this article in SOMA magazine, was responsible for turning the former bank into a space whose eclectic design influences mirror the fusion (Japanese/French)-themed menu. Decked out with a whimsical, neon-hued plastic chandelier by Stuart Haygarth, pop art posters, and a traditional Japanese mural along its rear wall, Chaya Downtown looks just as good as its food tastes.

I’ve had a three-course meal here along with many happy hour sessions (whose prices last all night, FYI) many times after work. Sushi is the star attraction, but I’ve never been disappointed by other menu items, including a heavenly Milk Chocolate Croissant Bread Pudding for dessert.

525 South Flower Street, Los Angeles | 213.236.9577

Beverly Hills/West Los Angeles/Santa Monica

Chego

If you like Kogi, you’ll love Chego. But Roy Choi’s Westside restaurant is no designer imposter, so to speak. Chego specializes in hearty rice bowls packed with big flavors, enough for a full leftover serving the next day unless you’re feeling particularly gluttonous. I sampled the Pork Belly Bowl, also splitting an order of the Ooey Gooey Fries topped with sour cream, melted cheeses, chilis and garlic, and the Tres Leches cake for dessert. Sinful satisfaction resulted.

Chego’s late hours and proximity to UCLA makes it great drunk food for the college crowd, but it’s also worth the trek at any time of day for those in surrounding neighborhoods. Make sure you double down on the Sriracha.

3300 Overland Avenue, Los Angeles | 310.287.0337

The Polo Lounge at the Beverly Hills Hotel

Los Angeles’ famed Pink Palace has long been a sanctuary to the rich and famous, from Elizabeth Taylor to the Osbournes. The hotel, steeped in a mixture of local history and lore, exudes a dreamlike dazzle. It is Hollywood glamour incarnate, with early 20th Century-style bungalows surrounding its palm-lined grounds, and other tinseled touches—ornate chandeliers, graphic wallpaper—peppered throughout its interior.

To be honest, you don’t really go to the Polo Lounge for the food; you go for the romance of it all. Maybe there’s an Oscar winner seated to your left, a movie deal going down to your right, or maybe you’ll just have a laugh playing a game of Count the Birkins over brunch time mimosas. Waiters may, unprompted, ask you if you want the goat cheese on the side of your egg white omelette rather than mixed in (“It cuts down on fat.”), but you can balk at the hotel’s silly calorie cutting ways and order the fine Polo Lounge Burger instead.

Awards season is a good time to visit, as the hotel’s ambiance is boosted by the excitement of Hollywood’s so-called “biggest night” and the impending Vanity Fair Oscar party, which was held at the hotel in 2010.

9641 Sunset Boulevard, Beverly Hills | 310.276.2251

Multiple Locations

Bodega

There are a few outposts of this low key wine bar in the L.A. area, from Santa Monica to Pasadena, with a newly opened location at Sunset and Vine. If you’re intimidated by wine lists and proprietors who sneer when you order Rosé, Bodega is a godsend. Wine is served in glass cups at a flat $7.00, and with a Red-‘n’-Coke cocktail on the menu (yeah, I think it’s gross, too), it’s clear that attitude isn’t the bar’s forte. Appetizers are cheap and decent enough, and it’s fantastic for happy hour if you happen to work nearby.

M Café de Chaya

Gwyneth and Madonna made macrobiotic cuisine cool, but M Café keeps it relevant, not to mention tasty. Whether you’re refueling after a Hatha yoga class or want to feel “cleansed” after a meal, M is the place to do so. Recommended are the Big Macro Burger (get it?), Kale Salad with Peanut Sauce, Sesame Soba Noodles, Curried Cauliflower, seasonal Mushroom Soup, Spicy Tuna Rolls, and Fudge Layer Cake, which tastes nothing like you’d expect a dairy-free dessert to taste: that is to say, ridiculously gooey and rich.

West Hollywood | 7119 Melrose Avenue, Los Angeles | 323.525.0588
Beverly Hills | 9433 Brighton Way, Beverly Hills | 310.858.8459

Mendocino Farms

Sandwiches are, in my opinion, the perfect meal: a compact way to cover all of your basic food groups with creative flavor combinations. Mendocino Farms has perfected the art of sandwich making, which is why I found myself eating here upward of three times a week when I first started working Downtown. That, and I managed to get chummy with most of the Flower Street staff, scoring a free chocolate chip cookie with my orders.

Doing Alice Waters proud, “Mendo” has adopted the Slow Food credo of sourcing sustainable ingredients from local purveyors. I’m partial to the Chicken MBT, Caprese, Curried Chicken Salad, and Pork Belly Bahn Mi, but you can also build your own sandwich, get nearly anything “salad style” (sans bread—but why would you want to?), or choose from a selection of daily soup and salad specials at the case up front.

Mrs. Winston’s Green Grocery

When I worked in Santa Monica’s massive Water Gardens complex, I ate lunch at Mrs. Winston’s nearly every single day. This build-your-own salad and sandwich shop promises nirvana for the health conscious, where a smörgåsbord of organic vegetables and pre-made sides (curried tofu, vegan egg salad) greet you upon entrance. It’s also a mini green grocery, stocked with vegan cookies, seaweed snacks, Have’a Corn Chips, Chocolove bars, and much, much more.

Scoops

Located on an odd corner in the K-Town/Los Feliz-y area, the O.G. Scoops belongs to L.A.’s brood of highfalutin ice cream parlors. Thirty-one flavors it is not, but you will get vegan options—tastier than some of the dairy ones, in my opinion—and an ever rotating menu of cool flavors like Wasabi, Brown Bread, and Mango Chili. Here, a “scoop” is actually two scoops, so you can try more than one quirky variety on each visit. There’s also a Westside outpost for those closer the way of the Pacific.

K-Town/Hollywood-ish? Uh, yeah. That way. | 712 North Heliotrope Drive, Los Angeles | 323.906.2649
West L.A. | 3400 Overland Avenue, Los Angeles | 323.405.7055

Umami Burger

Umami is the fifth taste, producing a subtle, maybe indescribable effect on the palate. Does this local chain manage to infuse umami into its burgers? Honestly, I have no clue, but I do know that their patties are cooked to perfect medium-rare doneness and that the Hatch Burger (four chilis, house cheese) rocked my world. The Onion Rings aren’t shabby either, but portions of these, fries, and ketchup tend to be small, much to the chagrin of many diners.

Urth Caffe

Urth Caffe Melrose is a scenester clusterfuck, but don’t let the parade of cutoff denim shorts and pouty 20-somethings deter you from sampling Urth’s awesome pastries, coffee, and lunch items. Their muffins—even the non-fat, made-for-L.A. version—are fluffy and delicious, their Apple Bread Pudding “famous,” and their salads, sandwiches and soups satisfyingly bursting with fresh ingredients.

There are actually four Urths in the L.A. area (and I’ve been to all of them), my favorite being the one off a semi-dodgy area Downtown frequented by the Fashion District set. Melrose is always great fun for people watching, especially during Sunday brunch hour.

Village Pizzeria

Village doesn’t do the artisanal thing a la Mozza, but this L.A. institution is my favorite pizza place in the city: a tiny and casual joint that claims to dish out “New York style” fare. Whatever that means (Is it crust thickness? Foldability?), it’s good all around. Three-odd dollars will get you a satisfying slice of cheesy goodness with a few toppings, and Village’s homemade sausage should always be one of them. Lunchtime and evenings are busy without fail, but the staff moves quickly, making this a better place to scarf-and-go rather than exchange long and leisurely conversations.

Hancock Park | 131 North Larchmont Boulevard, Los Angeles | 323.465.5566
Hollywood | 6363 Yucca Street, Hollywood | 323.790.0769

Mobile/Pop-Ups

Kogi

Kogi did not invent mobile food, but Chef Roy Choi can be credited with leading the recent food truck renaissance and inspiring several nationwide rip offs. This Korean BBQ-Mexican fusion project serves up tasty Short Rib, Spicy Pork, and Tofu tacos, an unexpectedly good Kimchi quesadilla, with a rotating menu of excellent desserts as well. Follow them on Twitter for the latest updates.

Locations vary | Follow @kogibbq on Twitter

Heirloom Tomato Salad at LudoBites 5.0

Confit Pork Belly with Mustard Ice Cream at LudoBites 5.0

LudoBites

LudoBites has been described as a “guerrilla restaurant” by the New York Times. Appropriate, considering the decidedly non-traditional approach its rebellious culinary leader, Ludo Lefebvre, has taken in crafting a dining experience for the public. It is impermanent; rather than finding a directory listing for the pop-up venture, you’ll have to follow Chef Ludo or wife Krissy on Twitter, keep tabs on his website or one of many L.A. food blogs.

Local restaurants host short-term runs of LudoBites. These are sporadic events when the tatted, charismatic Lefebvre and his rag-tag crew show up to whip up dishes worthy of Michelin stars without hefty price tags or pretention attached. Be forewarned: LudoBites reservations are difficult to score these days, owing to a growth in popularity and the incessant, though deserved, fawning of Jonathan Gold. When a location is announced, be sure you’re at your computer ready to double-click and secure your spot once online reservations open.

Lefebvre’s dishes are inventive, gracefully crossing genres, cultural influences, and marrying unexpected flavors with extraordinary skill. Poached Egg with Potato Mousseline and Chorizo, Grilled Octopus with Hazelnut Polenta, a Cheese Cupcake with Foie Gras-Chicken Liver Mousse “Frosting,” and Confit Pork Belly with Mustard Ice Cream were just a few of the dishes I sampled at LudoBites 5.0. My friend and I ordered and ate nearly the entire menu, well worth the food coma afterward. P.S.: depending on the venue, it may be BYOB, so check the website beforehand to ensure you’re not vino-less come dinnertime.

Locations vary | Sign up for LudoBites updates

It’s My Party, and I’ll List if I Want To

Heidi — Sun, 10 Jan 2010 18:19:41 +0000

Jane Birkin in all her bohemian glory

Note: I wrote half of this yesterday and the other half this morning after waking from a Bordelaise and butter coma. My actual birthday was the 9th, but posting today gave me the chance to include a couple things I wouldn’t have otherwise.

Today is my birthday, giving me permission to be unabashedly indulgent for one day, and one day only. Truth be told, I prefer that these 24-hours pass with little fanfare, which is why I’ve planned a quiet dinner with a few close girlfriends tonight.

Since I have a free pass to be self-serving, though, I’ll use it to share a few of my favorite things in—you guessed it—list form. There’s no binding thread among what follows, save for the fact that I’m really loving, wanting, listening, thinking about, and/or admiring them.

1. The Savage Detectives by Roberto Bolaño

I recently read a description of this novel, about a crew of “visceral realist” poets on a madcap quest for an elusive literary heroine, that pegged it as Y tu mamá también meets Gabriel García Márquez. That’s somewhat accurate and perhaps complimentary, but also reductive. Unwieldy as its character threads may be, Bolaño’s writing is controlled and lyrically singular. The last time I felt this way about an author was when I picked up Murakami’s The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle, which I now consider sacrosanct text. Only 200 pages in, and I can’t wait for the next 400.

2. The xx, “Intro”

The xx was on many a critic’s Top [insert number] list of 2009’s Most Notable Releases. I wasn’t convinced the first time I listened to the album, but I’ve since come to like the group’s self-titled debut and love “Intro,” its succinct opening track. It’s become one of those songs I stop midway, then jump back to the beginning because I don’t want it to end. Hypnotic and moody, just like I like ‘em.

Photo credit: LuisaViaRoma

3. Rick Owens Padded Leather Jacket

If I could make sweet, sweet love to an item of clothing, this would be it. After trying it on earlier this winter, I can attest to the fact that it fits perfectly and feels like a sumptuous second skin. Now, who has an extra $1,500 they can spare (and that’s on sale)?

Photo credit: Future Classics

4. Future Classics

When I first saw this draped dress in person, I believe my first words were, “this shit is ridiculous.” And it is—ridiculously beautiful, coupling femininity with layered and intricate figure-conscious cuts. I appreciate designer Julie Wilkins’ nod to vintage clothing and the deconstructive edge of each piece, especially. And who needs jeggings when you have sexy, buttoned, stirrup-like leggings like those above?

5. Style a la Jane Birkin

When I get dressed, I’m usually channeling Jane Birkin to some degree, or doggedly attempting to. While I may not be able to pull off the signature bangs, the high-waist jeans, square mini-dresses, and slouchy boyish/feminine look I can do. Pout not included.

Garance, left, and me, right, trying to tame my Canon Rebel XT (ignore the disgusting stained mirror)

6. Garance Doré

Photographer, illustrator, partner of Scott Schuman (a.k.a., The Sartorialist), and the French woman I secretly wish I was. She’s a woman of impeccable style, with an effervescence that comes across in photos and her playful musings about fashion. Devoid of pretense, Doré’s blog offers a refreshing and simultaneously erudite take on what’s happening on and off the runway.

Photo credit: Neiman Marcus

7. Chloé Eau de Parfum and Tom Ford Champaca Absolute

My grandmother on my mother’s side was a rigid disciplinarian who sold fish on the streets of Manila to provide for her family—far from being a fashion or beauty maven in the traditional sense. I only know her through stories my mother has told me, one of the more memorable anecdotes being that she was never without designer perfume. How the woman, who was partial to Nina Ricci and Chanel No. 5, managed to get her hands on high-end fragrances in the face of dire financial straits is equally confusing and impressive.

She passed her love of perfume down to my mom, who in turn cultivated the same appreciation in me. Growing up, I remember my mother smelling of Yves Saint Laurent’s Opium, Coco Chanel, and Jaipur, and my own taste tends toward forward florals and spicy aromas. At the moment, Chloé is getting the most play in my scent wardrobe (because I do indeed have a wardrobe, including Jo Malone’s Nectarine Blossom and Honey for bedtime), but Tom Ford’s Champaca Absolute is at the top of my wish list. Did I mention it’s my birthday today?

Photo credit: Neil Leifer

8. The Annenberg Space for Photography

Located on the same hallowed grounds as the CAA fortress building in Century City, the Annenberg Space for Photography is one of my favorite places to spend an afternoon in Los Angeles. I typically like to come here alone (more meditative), and I’ve seen every exhibit since it first opened last year. My favorite of the three rotating collections was themed around L.A. photographers/photojournalism, the work of Julius Shulman and Carolyn Cole being standouts for me. Best of all, visiting Annenberg is free; you’ll only have to pay a meager $1 parking fee post-validation. I visited the space today to see the Ioose/Leifer exhibit and left with a newfound appreciation for sports photography.

Mmm. Caramel icing.

9. Lark Cake Shop, Silverlake

As this is being written post-birthday celebration, I can include Lark on my list. My friend Frances, having heard me endlessly prattle on about wanting to sample the Caramel Cake from this adorable bake shop in Silverlake, surprised me by bringing it to dinner at Café Stella. It was as fantastic and moist as I imagined it, the sprinkle of Kosher salt in between layers of white cake and caramel icing subtly balancing out its sweetness.

Photo credit: The Louvre

10. Lists

My obsessive-compulsive love of organization was recently reinforced by a segment that aired on NPR. Famed Parisian museum the Louvre has unveiled an exhibit about “The Infinity of Lists,” curated in part by Italian writer Umberto Eco. Eco believes lists, even those as mundane as the phone book, can be “poetic” provided the correct intent is present. And that’s where this particular list ends.